Finally Back to College!
Diploma/Extended Diploma in Art & Design (Fashion)
Unit number and title
Unit 130: Presentation Techniques
Hand in deadline
All work (digital or on paper) to be handed in by 4pm on Friday 23rd October 2020 at the latest.
Assignment title: ‘Presentation Techniques’
Purpose of this assignment: The aim of this unit is to develop learners’s skills, knowledge and understanding, through exploration, to the purpose and relevance of a range of traditional and contemporary fashion presentation media and techniques.
Scenario In the workshops you will have constructed a circular accordion ‘jabara’. Use this and the theme of ‘tubular structures’ as your starting point/inspiration to design an outfit, garment or accessory for a specific target audience, and illustrate your final idea on a presentation board
Begin to develop your ideas for garments/accessories inspired by tubular structures and the jabara in your sketchbook. Try to experiment with a range of media and techniques, e.g. collage, drawing, Photoshop, and try to be as individual and creative as you can. Look at advertising campaigns/photoshoots and the work of other designers & illustrators for inspiration.
Choose a target market for your designs – this can be customers who buy from the high street or Haute Couture runway, or anything in between, but your design work should be appropriate for your chosen market. Research your chosen market for A/W 2020 and produce a themeboard –make sure that you focus on content that is appropriate for the age/spending habits/preferred retail outlets/interests of your intended client. You should also analyse a current promotional campaign/advert for a brand desirable to your intended market. Aim to describe or show how the brand has developed a campaign to suit their target market/customer
Use your findings so far to compile a range of at least 10 design ideas for outfits/accessories.
Choose one of your ideas to illustrate on a final presentation board. Consider photography/illustration style, media, layout, background, text, etc. carefully & make sure that they are all appropriate for your intended market.
Evaluate your work, and explain how your final presentation would appeal to your intended market.
|1. Research and development of ideas in sketchbook.|
2. Themeboard illustrating intended market and analysis of promotional campaign by a specific brand related to this.
|3. 10 design ideas; front & back views, in colour, at least A4-size.|
4. Final presentation board, at least A3 size, with appropriate background.
I practised doing some circular accordion and square ones to understand how they function, I loved the mechanism and the logic of their structures, but I struggle a lot with giving them a real function in my design, I was feeling dry with inspirations.
The circular accordion shape drove me to sleeves at the first feeling, meanwhile, the square one to shoulder elements or even to IKEA lampshades. The more I sewn them, the more I had these glimpse of ideas about "containers" of different forms, collapsable and expandable.
Could they become "bags" how they could be created? They will be way too futuristic? How they will function properly?
I didn't know, but the sleeves Ideas were running out, the circular shape wasn't inspiring me and the square wasn't enough, I had to pair it with something else.
So I asked my tutor if was possible to diverge to other shapes, using the same logic of structure, I had in mind pyramids, crystals, triangular shapes, it was ok.
The triangle's so much more interesting in my fashion view than a circle, can vary in many different ways than the circle, so this opened a much bigger space for ideas to me!
I have moved to triangular and crystal's shapes because I reckon they suit more my edgy style. I had some design ideas with the circular Jabara, I'll call them "sweet design" (I hope you get why when you'll see the sketches) but I was well more inspired by "shapes with corners".
The ideas/designs I've made for this unit are edgy, quirky a bit punk, but well balanced with classic and elegant allures, I can feel a mix of future with strong 40s and 50s style in my sketches.
I had a look at some Jabara outfits from Comme des Garçons (Spring 2014), Chanel Couture Fall 2013 - I am referring to an "Origami" outfit in particular, from the collection, with a unique style for the sleeves and the front panel, this one under.
Plus another amazing inspiration it's from Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2019 Couture, all the outfits have amazing shoulders features, with predominant triangular/pointy shapes, I LOVE IT.
Target Market for my designs
My target market for my design idea, it's represented by women from the age of 25 to 34 yrs old.
My designs are alternative and quirky, but with a sense of regality and elegance. On one side fantasy, couture-like creations, designed for extravagant social lives, on the other side still wearable, classic-looking pieces.
my sketches ideas I have mixed some classic shapes and futuristic
lines, but many of the designs are mostly ceremonial dresses or evening
dresses, so as my final piece for the unit, I am going for one of the
bag designs instead, still a classic/futuristic mix, but wearable in
many more ways and occasions.
Safe in terms of colours and material: planned in black, dark blue, red wine and emerald green with patent leather as the first choice, but as well plain leather or eco-friendly leather, if suitable for production.
The concertina at the bottom expands the bag's dept and the crystals and triangular shapes, on the top of the bag, gives a quirky presence to it.
My bag design it's projected for evenings and occasion, for someone who wants to look classic, but with a pop of punk style.
The market's target it's: working women, someone educated to understand complicated designs, that appreciate craftsmanship, they like to shop in vintage ateliers, Etsy marketplace for handcraft, unique pieces or high shops like Liberty.
I'd like to shelf my item as a medium to high-end price, because of the materials and the difficulty of the craftsmanship of the design, but I don't want to reject a part of my target market selling way too expensive items. So, I'd like to give the customer the possibility of buying the product and paying it little by little, with third-part companies like Klarna or divide buy.
Analysing a High fashion Brand
For my Brand/campaign analysis: I've chosen to talk about the Italian's brand: Gucci, to see how they advertise themselves, in the past and present days and how they have changed through the years.
Gucci, Italian high fashion brand, founded in Florence, by Guccio Gucci in 1921.
Next year, 2021, The Gucci brand will celebrate 100 yrs of establishment, it is the oldest fashion house founded in Florence, alongside with Salvatore Ferragamo and Roberto Cavalli.
It means that we got around 100 yrs of advertising materials, seems enough!
We should be able to notice how they used to promote themself before, and how much the House has changed through time.
I couldn't retrieve many advertising posters from the 20s, 30s, 40s online, but I ve sourced some vintage ones from the 50s and one the first in 1922.
It's incredible to believe that this ads it's from the same brand!
They did such a long way and advertising in general too, as well!
The advertising page promotes "G. Guccio & C.", it wasn't Gucci yet!
They tell you who's the ceo and owner, Guccio Gucci and to reassure you, they stated that he was an employer of another leather goods shop named Franzi (in case you have wondered! Who knows!)
In the center there is the store address and then:
English leather goods luggages
The finest items for presents
Seems a bit odd, that Guccio decided to sell English leather goods in Italy as first, but actually his fashion roots deepen during his stay in London with the family in 1897.
While working as a bellhop there, he would load/unload the luggage of the hotel's wealthy clients, learning about their tastes in fashion, quality, fabrics, traveling conditions.
After WWI, he worked for the maker of fine luggage Franzi, proudly mentioned in the ad we saw!
1930s An equestrian-inspired line launches with resounding success leading Guccio Gucci to create his unique horse bit icon.
Leather became scarce, pushing Guccio Gucci to introduce other fabrics in the composition of the products, such as raffia, wicker, wood, linen and, jute. The rombi motif, a Gucci signature, was created.
In 1937, Gucci launched its handbags.
Let's jump into the 50s and see how they move along
1953 Guccio Gucci dies, just 15 days after the opening of the first New York store. His sons Aldo, Vasco, Ugo and Rodolfo take over. The equestrian line is expanded and developed.
The style of ads changed a little, now we are able to see a basic image of the product and a long, long detailed description of the item.
The logo name became more essential, with just the surname.
They rely alot on the "Italianity" of the brand for their first "flight" to the US market, something that will remain present for the next decades as well.
Gucci in the 60s
In the 60s, Gucci opened a store in London, Paris and Palm Beach, and launched the Jackie Bag.
The double-G logo for belt buckles and other famous decorations were introduced in 1964.
The Flora scarf was designed in 1966 by Rodolfo Gucci and Vittorio Accornero for Grace Kelly Princess of Monaco, who became a notorious consumer of Gucci products.
In the 60s the logo became heavier in the look, the photos are simple and proudly Italian, with glimpses of historic Italian's landmarks.
1968-69 Finally colours! But we are still far away from the style of ads we well know!
The photo still got this vintage "vignette-allure" typical of old photos (I could have done even worst with my camera in the late 90s!) I mean that the center it's enlighted and the perimeter it's gradually darker.
The arrangment of the items it's as any of us will do it, if you get what I mean.
This example of the 1979 it's more minimalistic, light and well constructed.
The logo still has an emblem on it, but it is arranged in a more pleased way than previous years.
1980s Gucci ready-to-wear collection is shown for the first time with great success. The company faces issues regarding family arguments, tax evasion, poor management, all which affected the company reputation and profit.
After the '83 the logo finally got its familiar essential look, some ads still look like cheap magazine ads, pardon!
This last one instead it's more balanced and essential, with a more styled photo.
They are become well no enough to don't need to add many information!
Between 1981 and 1987, the sales of trademarked Gucci products reached $400 million. The 1980s were characterized by a mass-production of Gucci products, which generated revenue but negatively affected Gucci's position as an exclusive luxury brand.
Maurizio Gucci hired Dawn Mello to put Gucci back on tracks.
90s and early 2000
Since the death of the founder the Gucci family had disputes along the years and at the end in 1993, lost all involment of the fashion house.
In 1994, Domenico de Sole become the new CEO of Gucci and Tom Ford was named creative director of the House.
-Heather Stewart Whyte for Gucci
The Texas-born designer was appointed Creative Director of Gucci in 1994, when the brand was going through its hardest phase – previous chief designer Dawn Mello had just walked out of Gucci to join Bergdorf Goodman, and the sales were dropping.
Known for leather goods, scarves and bags, Gucci became sexy!
Ford produced scandalous campaigns that earned him the reputation of fashion’s greatest provocateur. Despite severe criticism Ford’s policy at Gucci proved effective – the sales were boosting, the buzz was escalating and Ford’s role at the newly founded Gucci Group conglomerate was increasingly important.
It was the time of supermodels like Kate Moss, Carmen Kass and provocative ad campaigns such as the G logo shaved on pubic hair.
In January 2015, Marco Bizzarri (CEO of Gucci) asked Alessandro Michele to act as interim creative designer for the January menswear show, giving him a week to reshape Frida Giannini’s original designs.
Alessandro Michele had been working for Gucci since 2002 under Tom Ford's direction and sincce 2005 under Frida Giannini's direction.
Michele accepted the challenge and introduced a “new Gucci: nonconformist, romantic, intellectual" for the Fall show of February 2015.
Two days later, became creative director of Gucci, Alessandro Michele launched the Renaissance of Gucci.
He revived Gucci classics like the double-G logo, the Jackie O. bag, and created iconic products such as the Dionysus handbag. With a feminized menswear, a strong feminist stance and a 'Geek-Chic' style, Alessandro Michele introduced a postgender props for Gucci.
In the four years since stepping up as creative director, Michele has turned Gucci into a maximalist dream with collections that seem to seep from his imagination onto an intricately designed runway. With crystals, ruffles, vibrant color schemes, baby dragons and fake heads, plus endless pop culture references and an innate understanding of social consciousness, Michele has returned Gucci to the “it” status it held under Ford.
Read as well: "Charting the evolution of Gucci"
GUCCI, ALESSANDRO MICHELE AND HARMONY KORINE
I need to analyse specific campaigns for this task, there are thousands and thousands of beautiful campaigns, but I think I should talk about Gucci latest collaboration with Harmony Korine.
I love Cinema in genaral from old movies to weird, weird ones I love to watch unusual movies and I have watched some of Korine's works, I know the guy, I still got in my movie list many of his film to still watch, but the guy it's a quirky genius with a unique, original style. This collaborations sounds perfect, Alessandro Michele it's another innovater with an amazing creative style, so the combination it's sublime in my opinion.
Watch the campaign videos here:
“A certain type of fun is also portrayed and the idea of how one’s obsession with appearances can create a kind of common ground that can become a sort of brotherhood. It was beautiful to see these three men together, seemingly different but very similar” Alessandro Michele on the new Gucci Tailoring campaign directed by Harmony Korine in February. Three artists with distinctive style are in a West Coast home with their pets, A$AP Rocky, Tyler, The Creator, and Iggy Pop, with his parrot Biggy Pop and a blue hyacinth macaw, at the kitchen table with a pot of spaghetti, at the lounge in the afternoon sunlight.
Another campaign: Gucci Cruise 2020 | Featuring Gucci Mane, Sienna Miller and Iggy Pop
Gucci is a party and everyone is invited. Presenting the Gucci Cruise 2020 campaign ComeAsYouAre_RSVP directed by Harmony Korine and creative direction by Alessandro Michele and art direction by Christopher Simmonds. Featuring Gucci Mane, Sienna Miller and Iggy Pop. Inclusive uninhibited hedonism culminates in a party at a Roman villa with diverse characters as guests, epitomizing Gucci’s spirit according to Alessandro Michele.
"Gucci is a party and everyone is invited." if you got enough money, I'd like to add, if not, you may be lucky enough to serve at those happy-crazy party?! Sorry, but I am so skint at the moment, that it was the first tough I had in mind after watching it!
Feels so much as a Korine work, this crazy original parties with such unique characters, young and senior engaging together in a long never ending party.
Alessandro Michele has never played by the rules when it comes to his Gucci campaigns and Harmony Korine never did since his early movies career.
Korine did movies like Gummo, Trash Humpers, the videos for Die Antwoord, that are a totally different "world" in terms of movies and in terms of reality!
So, obiovisly Korine and Michele campaign had to be unique with a bold edgy look for the label’s Cruise 2020 campaign.
-Type of models
As we had said, there is a kaleidoskope of different models for this campaign, no limits of age, celebrieties of different area, iconic legend like Iggy Pop and new famous rappers and other kind of artists and actors/actress that are not so usual into this days ads like a countess!
Most of the models of any age are well fit and interesting in looks... and Iggy Pop, well we know his ecclectic look!
Is there any resemblance to previous ad campaigns by the same company?
This ad has all of the Alessandro Michele key elements, it got his style, it's amazing well balanced hand mixind luxurious, trendy and tacky together.
I think any younger generation reconize Gucci with the Michele visions of it and could easily reconize this is a Gucci ad.
-How would you describe the clothing in the ad?
The style it's androginous, gender fluid, a bit geek and nerdy, a bit over the top, well mixed with classic gems and with a sense of what I call tacky-chic.
I love seeing male models wearing long women style jackets with small purse, or rocking a skirt with hairy legs, Iggy pop with sartorial trousers and fuchsia pointy girl boots.
The 70s were also a source of inspiration for the collection, with retro floral prints, knitwear in earthy tones, and huge sunglasses appearing throughout. A piece from the Disney x Gucci partnership, which debuted earlier this year to celebrate 90 years of Mickey Mouse, is also featured in the campaign.
-What atmosphere are they trying to create?
for this question I am referring especially to the Gucci Cruise 2020 | Featuring Gucci Mane, Sienna Miller and Iggy Pop video (most of the photos ads are from the same villa set) .
The eclectic host of people, from all different walks of life, is representative of Gucci’s aim to break barriers and promote inclusivity. Everyone is invited, regardless of where they are from or who they are. The campaign also mirrors one’s state of mind, with the unbounded aspect of the party symbolising the fact that anything is possible.
The clothes offer endless possibilities to be whomever you want or to appear as you prefer, without any barriers or limits whatsoever. Suitably playful, liberated and libertarian, and also inclusive, hedonist and uninhibited - to epitomize Gucci’s spirit according to Alessandro Michele.
To me personally, the more I watched this photos and ad video for the campaign, the more I see a connection with the famous Rothschild Surrealist ball of 1972
check here to get what I mean: here
It is a famous (someone says illuminati) party by one of the wheltiest family in the world, where they were invitated Dali and Hepburn, it was a surrealist ball, with lavish costumes and the party of korine a michele reminds that:
The year decade it's the same of the inspirations style of Michele, plus the surrealist kitch vibe of everything, the whealty and prominent peoples from different areas, not sure If I am right, but this in my opinion could be into their inspirations for the look of the campaign.
-Who is it aimed at? We are talking - gender, age, job, disponsable income, what else do they buy, who do they follow on Instagram etc...
Gucci has become a status symbol, all younger celebrieties, rappers, singers, people from reality show, influencers, full dress in Gucci.
It become overthetop, a brand to show, a brand to indicate how well, whelty and on trend you are. It is a luxury shop, so it definately out of my range of clothing to buy as a skint student.
It definately has whealty and famous people on their list, actress, models, influencers or any people that want to be noticed on instagram.
They all follow prob Iggy pop and the others actrors and rappers in the campaign like especcially gucci mane, they follow prob die antwoord, or pop singers and many influencers and they maybe brownse vogue magazines while waiting at the surgeon! Sorry I was a bit sour!
Btw I really like as well the Gucci lockdown campaign for this pandemic year, realised by the models, at home, in their own way, with no photographer, director, stylist and make up artist, this was such a clever idea!
10 design ideas for outfits/accessories.
- Design concept of accordion bags and clutches- illustrated by The Elisarium
-Concept Design of an accordion bag- illustrated by The Elisarium
-Concept Design of accordion bags and pochette- illustrated by The Elisarium
-Concept Design of accordion bag with abstract decoration- illustrated by The Elisarium
-Concept Design of formal dress with shapes decoration- illustrated by The Elisarium
-Further Concept Design of an edgy formal dress - illustrated by The Elisarium
- Concept Design of a fairytale like formal dress - illustrated by The Elisarium
-Concept design leather jacket - by the Elisarium
-Concept design of square accordion sleeves fashion illustration by the elisarium
Concept design of Bags with accordion and concertina looks, by the elisarium
For my final work, I have decided to go for this classic unique futuristic bag, with rectangular accordion at the bottom. I think it's my best and most challenging concept by far, even if my mock wasn't perfect, was well welcomed in the class by fellow students (this means I should change my target age group?!) and on Instagram by both ladies and gents! It made me proud!
At the begin of the unit I wasn't sure this design could work, but now I truly believe it's a great and fresh original design, that even if quirky looking, could be loved for different fashion choices (abstract style, classic shape box and materials, edgy spiky shapes deco', golden details, shine material... a bag that expands.. who doesn't want that!).
So, I hope nobody will steal my concept idea and become rich 'cause I will not know how to recover from this!
From the sketch/concept idea I have created the mock with calico fabric, some real fake patent leather shoulder straps and golden buckles.
I have sewed most of the calico parts the triangular/ pyramids shape decoration, the accordion structure and the bottom and top with the sides.
The calico fabric it's lighter and softer, than the materials I have intended for the real bag, so I reinforced the top structure box with foam sheets, cut into size and glued inside.
I ve paint the fabric with black acrylic paint and add the bottom strap that keeps the bag "closed" or "expanded".
We did a little collaboration with the photography class of the college students helped us to take some professional photoshoots of our designs. I will talk more about that in my evaluation, but from these photos, I have created my campaign examples using Photoshop.
For one of the two, I thought to take from my Italian roots and integrate something from where I am from Apulia, south of Italy.
For this stage, I ve created two different styles of campaign ads for my bag design:
I ve searched photos of fish markets or traditional streets festivals, front views of beautiful Masserie or Trulli landscapes. I even searched pictures of our traditional way of, hanging tomatoes at the wall to dry, "Pomodoro di Inverno" because the contrast of the old Leccese stones with the bright colours of the tomatoes it's beautiful.
-masseria "le stanzie" and Pomodoro di Inverno, puglia
I couldn't find anything to match well with the photos, so I opted for one of the most beautiful "doors" in Apulia, a door in the village of Ostuni, with a characteristic whitewashed stone, a gorgeous palette of colours for the door and some of our traditional plants.
The logo's big and opulent, the colours are bold and vivid.
-example of a mock campaign for my design bag idea
The second one it's a campaign inspired by a Gucci older ad, maybe of around 2010, not sure their bag ads were pretty light and essential in those years, and a bit less tacky-chic like the latest ads! the ads are mostly in full picture no frame and with a background colour and a big view of the logo.
I took inspiration especially from this lilac Gucci bag ads, it's predominantly white, with shades of reds and lilac, the shades are highly faded and the highlight gives a sharp look.
I have tried to recreate, the style of that ad for mine and I think this is my final piece for the campaign: I love the colour palette, the highlights on the jacket and the movements of the model's legs.
-example of a mock campaign for my design bag idea
Evaluation of my work and process:
It was the first unit project of the year, after the first lockdown we had in March. It is still a weird period, I found hard doing one week in college and one week independently at home, made a bit hard to keep myself in time with the deadline, well organized and in the end, I have managed my time terribly.
At first, I was confused about the purpose of these Jabara things, but once I overcome that, I felt inspired by the unit but I overdid as always!
My original intent was to create a real bag instead of a mock one, even a small and larger version, but I couldn't source most of the materials per time, plus even if I had them, I could rarely use the industrial machines these past weeks, due to our "students bubbles" locations, so I lost a load of time into the "real" making of the bag, that never actually happened at the end (I hope in the future.)
I overdone as well with task 3, First of all not just talking about the latest big campaigns from Gucci, plus all the analysis I had to do, especially I lost lots of time studying 99 plus years of the Gucci House, interesting, but a bit out of track. Using so much time researching vintage ads year per year slow me down immensely.
Not happy with that, I thought to show my essay in the form of a youtube video, good idea but the time wasn't enough.
In the end, I have lost loads of time, recording, collecting video files, trimming them, record myself over and over, trying to explain the unit clearly and lightly.
The video, in the end, could be ready in maybe a couple of months! But not for our deadline and being a heavy video project, I can't easily download parts of it to show a preview of, so I feel pretty dumb right now!
I ve tried to do a big extra mile for the unit, but I don't have much proof of it!
Here some screenshots at least! Or if I was in school around the deadline and my tutor had 37 min of freedom to be bored by my half-raw footage, but I don't mind, I will finish it when I'll finish it, maybe with the real bag at the end!
With the concept design, I am pleased, I have this vivid vision of how my bags look, way better from the mock!
This classic look, with a glimpse of a doctor or school purse, with classic elegant and shiny materials, sturdy/solid look and the edgy quirky decorations on top, full body triangles, crystals and pyramids not the strinked look they turned out in the mock, probably because I haven't fill them with something and because the calico it's too soft.
We had some misadventures with the photography day, not everything turned out how I had in mind.
This becuse we rushed everything in few hours, with a model that isn't used to model, so she needed a bit more time to get less stiff and more confortable with the camera, we meet the photographer that day, we lost more than an hour just for the lights set and the backdrop, as well because the outfit couldn't work with a background (she dressed half white, half black, so whatever of the two background we choosen we had some parts of the outfit less visible).
I love the leather jacket, well connected with my collection ideas, but I prefered another outfit for her, maybe a dress or long trousers. I had to work with what I had, and was definately better than the photos I tryied to do at home (my home it's so dark and yellowy the lights are terrible!)
In general, I think that if I had managed my time better and had more in school college lessons, I maybe had a better looking and more cohesive unit results, but we are studying during a pandemic year, so I am happy that we still had managed these days of college without troubles!
If it was possible I wanted to make an ad campaign, with some traditional apulian veg or fish market or some picture of the famous festivals of the region, with their characteristic parade light, the model with some tailored trousers or a long classic dress with the leather jacket . One photo of the bag closed and one of the bag extended.
The latest Gucci ads are amazing, I wish I could handle to shoot a similar campaign! Maybe with a traditional uk houseparty and the the right amount of time to work something like that with no money! But no parties in this pandemic year, we were lucky to be able to see ech other and made those photoshoot!
I still think that my designs are for a target age around 25 to 34, but I am happily pleased a younger audience it's pleased by the product concepts.
I will love to try to do a real product from this concept, I had to perfectionate the pattern and make some fabric research and tests, not sure if I can pull such and handcraft design like the one I have planned for real, but I am sure it is an excellent fashion idea to make and market.